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Endrizzi, the alphabet of flavors from the Trentino hills

Since 1885 Cantina Endrizzi has been producing Trentino wines. But Endrizzi is above all a family. This name preserves the charm of a locality : San Michele all’Adige and the passion for wine as a work of art. A philosophy of life embodied today by Paolo and Christine Endrici (Endrizzi in the local dialect) and the younger generation with Lisa Maria and Daniele. Endrizzi’s wines are made in the fresh climate of the Trentino hills, a land cultivated with environmentally friendly practices. The Masetto vineyard The sparkling Trento DOC is coming from the Pian Castello vineyard, one of the few in Trentino with an authentic clos structure. This Metodo Classico is left to mature on lees from 2 to 5 years, with a minimum dosage that does not alter the characteristics of the original grapes (Chardonnay and Pinot Nero). The Riserva Pian Castello arrive in complete simplicity, unadorned, and it taste so good! You look at it almost with astonishment, as if you hadn’t been introduced to each other. But then you start to reconstruct your alphabet …

Querciabella’s Batàr, an essential marker of the time

Who hasn’t dreamed of penetrating the secret of winery creation; of entering the heart of the demiurge and illuminating their wines with the light of everyday life? Wineries homes resemble the winemakers and thus shine a new light on their work. For me wine is an essential marker of the time, he concentrates great historical events and invites a multiplicity of viewpoints. Here, in Querciabella, the “altitude” winemaking is challenging and demanding yet produces nectars well worth the effort and worthy of cellaring. Rows of squat vines clinging to Chianti’s hillsides (800m). Vintners challenge the laws of nature to ensure proper maturation. By virtue of having cultivated their vines over generations, Querciabella have also developed a cutting-edge art. The most classy cuvee is Batar (Chardonnay 50%; Pinot  Bianco 50%), rich and tender, that exudes dried and fruit flavor, hint of salinity and great minerality, a remarkable heritage of Batard Montrachet, a love for strange and elegant things.

Brunello, l’aura du millésime 2010 déjà dans le lendemain #1

Cela fait 5 ans que tout le monde en parle, le millésime 2010 de Brunello di Montalcino va bientôt sortir. Officiellement cela se passera en février au moment des primeurs « Benvenuto Brunello », mais dès ce mois de janvier quelques domaines lancent leur nouveau millésime. Le tout premier à ouvrir la danse est le nouveau cru Vallocchio de la Tenuta Fanti le 1er janvier. 2010 en effet, est l’un des plus beaux millésimes produit à ce jour sur l’appellation, surement le meilleur de ces 10 dernières années. L’hiver a été caractérisé par de basses températures et la neige qui ont retardé le réveil végétal de la vigne, toutefois ce réveil a été ensuite aidé par d’abondantes pluies qui ont garantie une floraison luxuriante. Après donc un printemps pluvieux, l’été a été chaud et sec ; Juillet et Aout ont enregistré des températures hautes mais parsemées de pluies bienvenues qui ont rafraichi les plantes et maintenu le stress hydrique modéré. Fin septembre, tous les raisins se présentaient dans un état sanitaire parfait, avec des peaux d’un bleu sombre riches …

Heidsieck, the globetrotting dandy Champagne for this Christmas

A legend cannot be built on sand. The “Maison” of Charles Heidsieck understands this. Its president has therefore revived a somewhat forgotten legend, the man who was one of the first to introduce his wines to the New World. Known to Americans as “Champagne Charlie”, he first crossed the Atlantic in 1852 with chestfuls of bottles to convince Americans of the superiority of his wines. For the 2014 Holiday season, the house is reissuing three of these maple-wood truncks. The most prestigious, the Malle 1852 Oenothèque, contains six bottles of the iconic Brut Réserve, six of the Rosé Réserve, six of the legendary Blanc des Millénaires 1995, and three of each of the rare 1983 and 1985 vintages, along with a Riedel decanter and flutes, and a writing kit (5 000€). This ends the hunting Christmas gift season with a fantasmagoric phenomena to be captured by eye and mouth, with effects of relief and touch, a master of the cantilevered construction that mobilizes all the possibilities of space. If this sinfully “malle” lands under your Christmas tree, there’s …

Lights on at the Mercato Centrale in Florence for a magic Christmas

The Florentine Mercato Centrale offers in abundance everything grown and produced on fertile soils of Tuscany. If you’re looking for Tuscany’s signature specialty, you can buy Fiorentina for dinner, a sizable, at least one kilo heavy, piece of Chianina beef on the bone. There’s also trippa, aromatic sausages made from boar and donkey, ham and mortadella, lard from Colonnata, mature and young sheep cheese, farmer’s yoghourt, dried boletus mushrooms and, of course, extra virgin cold-pressed olive oil, tangy, with a distinct bitter note. Bakeries sell Tuscan bread, baked without salt, and crispy cantucci with almond. Traditionally you have to deep them in sweet Vin Santo before putting them in your mouth. Of course, it is possible to have snack at the Central Market. Moreover, it is essential to arrive hungry and elbow your way to the queue at Da Nerbone café. Place your order at the bar, and then eat your catch slowly, washing it down with wine from Chianti Classico. Here, the Chianti Classico Company has a wine shop. The Enoteca Chianti Classico is …

La Véritable Pizza, le goût de Naples à Paris

Luciano Pignataro du journal italien “Il Mattino” raconte la Pizza Napolitaine: “La pizza napolitaine est le mets de la cuisine italienne le plus connu au monde, similaire à ce que représente le Champagne pour la France. Des traditions séculaires relient les deux, alliant la qualité de la matière première et le haut niveau de l’artisanat. Dans ce disque magique de pâte, nous retrouvons la culture méditerranéenne du blé et de l’huile d’olive, celle nordique du lait et enfin la culture latino-américaine de la tomate. Naples, pendant deux siècles, a été, après Paris, la plus grande ville d’Europe. Au 18ème siècle, ces grandes cultures se sont mélangées pour offrir à la gastronomie un mets délicieux, sain et incomparable. Tous les jours à Naples, en Italie et dans le monde entier, des milliers de fours à bois sont allumés pour permettre la préparation de la pizza napolitaine, célébrée dans 400 chansons, poésies et récits. Une tradition qui se renouvelle grâce aux jeunes générations qui recueillent le travail de leurs prédécesseurs tout en élargissant les horizons et améliorant …

700 Italian restaurants in Seoul and Italian wines haven’t boomed yet, why?

Well, Tuscany was my first love, my first tasting and my first great wine. And my next. And my next. Indeed, I’ve visited Tuscany more than any other wine region and the flavor of these wines, more than those of Burgundy, Rioja, Barolo or Bordeaux, meander teasingly through my taste memory wherever I might be, whatever I might be drinking… And now I’m drinking Majuang, Korea’s first major wine product and it isn’t glitzy. In 1977 Majuang wine began production in Korea; until 1987 it was the most commonly available type of wine, accounting for around 90% of sales. After that time, foreign wines began to be imported and Majuang’s share of the market dropped to around 15%. Majuang wines are not 100% Korean; they contain wines imported from Europe and Chile mixed with the local product. There are a number of types being made, both red and white, and the number and types of varieties change with time. Majuang is produced at the Gyeongsan Winery by Lotte Liquor, a global business group as well …

Le leggende non muoiono mai

In più dei suoi davanzali del XVIII° iscritti al Patrimonio Mondiale dell’Unesco, Bordeaux ha anche le sue istituzioni culinarie come la Maison Dubern, simbolo della gastronomia e dell’eleganza bordolese dal 1894. A Bordeaux, solo due maison hanno attraversato i secoli, il Chapon Fin e Dubern che si trova nel triangolo d’oro del centro città, al 42,44 Allées de Tourny. Pierre e Isabelle Dupuy, hanno acquisito la bella casa di pietra nel 2010, una scommessa folle per questa coppia di architetti parigini che dopo due anni di lavori, hanno riaperto il ristorante, un’avventura ispirata dal fatto che le leggende non muoiono mai e che Bordeaux senza Dubern, non sarebbe più Bordeaux. Ma non sono bastati solo i lavori di rinnovo, la coppia ha dovuto ridare tutto il suo lustro alla maison passando ovviamente anche dalla cucina voluta franca e sincera. Facciamo un passo indietro, nel 1894 il giovane Paul Dubern integra la maison Auriac. Dopo il servizio militare, Paul riprende in mano l’azienda che fabbrica conserve, tra le quali anche un famosissimo consommé di gambero che ne …

Vitiarium

Borgo San Felice se trouve au cœur du vrai Chianti Classico, sur une colline à 350mètres au-dessus du niveau de la mer et à seulement 15 km de Sienne (1 heure de voiture depuis Florence). Comme quasiment tous les grands domaines toscans, ses origines viticoles sont anciennes, ici les pierres de la petite chapelle érigée à la mémoire du martyre Felice da Nola datent du Xe siècle. Mais avant de vous parler de leurs vins, laissez-moi vous illustrer le Relais… Le bourg médiéval a été restauré en 1991 et transformé en un hôtel qui a de suite adhéré au label Relais & Châteaux. Les travaux de rénovation ont vraiment su exalter les caractéristiques architecturales des anciens bâtiments médiévaux, les maisons en pierre, la petite chapelle, les rues pittoresques, afin de garder intacte l’authenticité des lieux en y ajoutant une touche d’élégance très discrète. Borgo San Felice dispose de 29 chambres et 17 suites distribuées dans tout le village historique avec, à la clef, tous les services d’une structure luxueuse : le bar sous les arches avec …

A chi appartiene Bordeaux?

Chi, leggendo, si aspetta delle statistiche precise sulle proprietà bordolesi sarà deluso, non esiste un quadro liscio e senza angoli. I 115 000 ettari di vigne di Bordeaux sono in mano a 5 700 vignaioli: famiglie storiche, nuovi golden boy, assicuratori, imprenditori in cerca di prestigio, negozianti che vogliono assicurarsi la materia prima, una galassia ricchissima che cerchero’ di chiarirvi. La tendenza é comunque che le aziende s’ingrandiscono ma che i proprietari diminuiscono. Ad esempio nel Entre-deux-Mers, regione poco conosciuta ma dove si producono 800 milioni di bottiglie, troviamo più di un centinaio di aziende che sfruttano 100 ettari di vigne (di cui ben 30 ne sfruttano più di 200). Le cooperative sono lo zoccolo duro di questa produzione di massa. Purtroppo pochi giovani hanno voglia di continuare il lavoro dei loro genitori anche se il valore del vino sfuso é in costante aumento. Nelle denominazioni più prestigiose, business e storie di famiglia s’intrecciano costantemente. Prendiamo l’esempio della famiglia Aubert, un impero costruito durante 250 anni il cui diamante é lo château La Couspade a …